In the heart of Chinatown, in an old wood and sheet metal building, the Chu Fung Leungs have taken up the fight to ensure that Chinese patisserie continues to be made in Mauritius.

Six days a week, Heong Kue, the patriarch, supervises the production of traditional sweetmeats. At the back of the shop, he scrupulously follows the routine he was taught; kneading, mixing, and sprinkling away. Every day, he makes a dozen or so types of homemade cakes and pastries. While his wife, Chew Clan Moi, lightly frys sesame gateaux stuffed with black lentil paste, he fills the cloth-lined wicker baskets with the famous gateau la cire,  a kind of rice and honey sweetmeat that attracts customers from all over the island.

After cooking for eight hours, the gateaux la cire finds a place next to the gateaux ledoigt, a light, crunchy snack at the counter, along with the Chu Chun Kow, a soft rice cake, and the Kee Fa Kow, which is made from rice flour and black sesame seeds.